Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Lake Titicaca







We decided to send a bit extra on the bus trip to Puno from Cuzco, so we took the Inca Express. The Inca Express is a tourist bus that stops at a couple locations between the two cities and includes a lunch buffet. It was very touristy, and made us realize how those with money explore South America. I prefer our way, although the lunch buffet was nice (next time we will remember to bring some tupperware.)



Our first stop was at an old church called San Pedro. It was built on Inca foundations and had a lot of really old paintings. It was interesting to see how they had incorporated Inca beliefs into the Christian paintings in order to help convert the Inca. Apparently, the restoration was being funded entirely by the tours going through the church.



The second stop was at an Inca ruin called Raqchi. Although we had seen many ruins, this was still somewhat interesting as it had a 12meter adobe and stone wall that used to support the temple roof. They also had 156 round store rooms, of which a couple had been fully restored. An intersting site, although we were hurried through fairly quickly. Another reason I am not a fan of these package tour sort of things.



Our next stop was at the top of the pass between Cuzco and Puno at an elevation of 4300 meters. We piled out for the obiligatory shot in front of the sign (with llamas!) and the all piled back in the bus.



The third stop was at a museum at Pucra. It contained artifacts from a nearby excavation of a pre-inca city and temple. This was a little disapointing as I thought we´d be going to the actual site, not just the museum. A museum can be anywhere in the world but there is only one excavation site. Nonetheless, it did have some cool stone statues and examples of the Inca Cross, which pre-dated Christ.



After that it was non-stop to Puno through the altiplano. The scenery was very beautiful, and as we pulled into Puno, we got our first views of Lake Titicaca.




Puno, itself was not very impressive, kind of just a dirty border town that once a year has some crazy festivalsin Feburary. We, however, were there to see the floating reed islands, which we set out to see the next day. These islands are entirely made of torta reeds that grow in the lake and are world famous. Too famous actually, as they have turned into something of a floating tourist trap. The islanders originally started living on these island to avoid conflict with the Inca and other hostile tribes. We were there in the low season, yet there were still at least 30 or so boats making trips out to the islands. There were at least a hundred more boats moored that were all used during the peak season. Apparently, there are still some reed islands that have escaped the hordes of tourists, and I hope they stay that way. I make it sound like it was all bad, but it was cool experience and not something you can do anywhere else in the world. It was interesting to see how they had been living for hundereds of years as well as the modern adaptions they had made (note the solar panel next to the reed house.)





We had had enough of Puno so the early the next morning we caught a bus to Copacabana, Bolivia. Much to our surprise, the two names on the registar above ours were Luke Pretty and Laura Lambert. They happened to be making a trip down to Bolivia before their hike on the Inca Trail, and had decided to go to the same town as us.









After a little confusion at the border we were across into Bolivia. I am glad that I am travelling under my Canadian passport as the border gaurds had decided to charge all Americans $100 for a visa. Other Americans, who came into Bolivia a different way said they didn´t have to pay but it may have been a new tax. Their were a few Americans on our bus who were surprised by this and ended up being held and the bus went on without them. Not a fun situation for them.









The town Copacabana was nice, especially after Puno. It is fairly small and is nestled in between some hills right on the lake shore. We checked into our hotel (90 bolivianos a night which is only $12!), explored the markets and hiked up one of the nearby hills. All along the trail are crosses that pilgrams place rocks at the bottom as they hike up. At the top are a bunch more crosses, an amazing view and a bunch of vendors selling miniture items. It is traditon to buy these small items (eg. toy cars) and have them blessed in the hopes that you will receive a real life one in the following year. An interesting tradition that has done wonders for the toy trade.



The next day we caught a boat out to Isla del Sol, a small island that is believed to be the birth place of the first inca, Manco Inca, and the sun itself. We had been recommend a small family run hostel just outside the main town which turned out to be an amazing little place. The family was very friendly and a night´s stay, dinner and breakfest was only 120 bolivianos($16!!) for both Katie and I. I had the most amazing rainbow trout, which the stock apparently originated from Canada. The four of us also went on a 14km trek around the islands, which was very tiring as the elevation ranged from 3815m (lakeshore) to over 4000m. Along the hike we were met by many local children who all wanted our cookies. Katie, being a sucker for small children, gave them our precious cookies and bought some candies to hand out. We visited a couple more ruins including them Temple of the Sun, which had an amazing view of lake. We also found, with the help of an Argentian women, the Rock of the Puma, which is were Manco Inca and the Sun were born. The views along the hike were breath taking, I can understand why the Inca believed that this was such a special place.
The next day we boated back to the mainland, said goodbye to Luke and Laura, who were heading to Cuzco and boarded a bus to La Paz.





I have some more photos posted here:




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